PERU: Lima - Part I &II

I think the last time you read I had left Quito. I went to Lima for a day and then to Cuzco to meet up with my dad to hike the Inca Trail, then back to Lima for a few days before I took off to Santiago, Chile, where I am right now. Ok, that´s the geography.

LIMA: The first night I went I stayed at my friend (through Carlo) Thierry´s place. He has an outstanding apartment overlooking the beachfront of Lima. Outstanding. My favorite part was that the walls facing the sea where all glass. Pictures later.

I spent my day being a tourist. The historical buildings in Lima, and the Baroque-Peruvian architecture was truly exquisite. Lima is foggy about 9 months out of the year...so imagine every day I spent there overcast. It was not cold, or hot. The weather was pleasant, but it was like being stuck in Baryshnikov´s (sp) WHITE NIGHTS.

Two moments to write home about.

-Pizarro´s statue was among the many sites a tourist should see. So, I took off to find it. The guide (not Lonely Planet) said it was in the middle of the Plaza de Armas, the main plaza in Lima. I started at the center for while and saw nothing. Later I learned that the statue had been placed Pizarro´s horse´s ass to the city´s main church so it had to be removed. I consulted Lonely PLanet and found out where it had gone. So, I followed the map, got there, and again...no Pizarro. At this point I could have said, forget it. He was a conquistador and what the heck am I doing looking for him all over the place, but the gay over achiever got the best of me, and I HAD TO FIND IT!!! So, I started asking around, and eventhough everyone knew where it was, nobody really did. After searching 2-3 more spots I finally found the damn thing. It was HUGE, UGLY and well a man on a horse. Lesson: when you cannot find a Spanish consquistador let it go. In the end all you will really find is a horse´s ass.

-Pepe. Pepe is a great friend of Andres (from Quito). Again, the amazing connections of this travel experience along with the outstanding hosting by everyone has been beautiful. I met Pepe at his job and immediately we were off. He wanted me to see Lima at night. It was different, the lighting, the energy. We drove around for a while and ended up at La Rosa Nautica, a beautiful sea restaurant. I say sea because it is literally in the sea. We sat in the bar and had Peru´s national drink (mostly. it is also chile´s drink and it is a big fight, but enough.) The pisco was grand, but the cool thing was that the bar shook a bit when the waves hit. It was very cool. Ok, a little sickening for those with weak stomachs, but tres cool for me. We then went to SCENAS, an outstanding restaurant where I ate A LOT OF GREAT FOOD!!! Pepe has
an advanced knowledge of Limeno restaurants and the gastronomical tour was fabulous. Beyond food and tourism was the best gift of all - PEPE. I know I have said this a lot this time around, but G-d, I just keep meeting these outstanding people. His heart is huge. He is smart, funny,
interesting, truly another gift of travel, living, and well, Andres. GRACIAS!!!

I will write about the return to Lima here...Cusco was in between and it needs its own entry.

I returned to Lima with my dad. He fell in love with Cusco, and the idea of being in a big city was less exciting, but Lima is interesting so it was worth it. I think. He may write later and he can give you his opintion. We spent our days being tourists and, well, eating. For me much of the experience was seeing my dad´s shocked face everytime I spoke about food. Like my mother in Thailand my dad spend most of his trip wondering how I could eat so much, why I talked so much about food, and well, where it all goes. So...

THE COOLEST THING ABOUT LIMA Part Deux was RAFAELLOs. Suggested by Thierry who came to dinner with us and Pepe, and Pepe´s partner Carlos Rafaello. Rafaellos proved to be some of the yummiest food I have eaten in Latin America. The service was outstanding, food quality tops, and wines very, very, very good. Although we should have had the first bottle again, instead of switching to the Merlot. Perhaps my favorite thing in the world to do is eat, drink wine and be with friends and family. I loved being able to exchange in English and Spanish, watching my dad enjoy himself with my new friends and eating great food. Note here, we started eating at 11pm, a time that seemed normal to all but my dad. Nonetheless, he was a champ drinking up the wine and eating a feast.

I ended my time in Lima by going dancing until 7am. Pretty dandy.